You can visit Lysefjord by land or by water. There is a regular ferry, which is docking at the end of the fjord, giving a non-sailors a chance to look around the fjord. Of course, visiting the fjord on a sailing boat is much more fun. No time restrictions, if you arrive during the day, giving yourself plenty of time to slowly make your journey into Lysebot. If you fancy staying over, you can use the nearby campsite and then explore the area from there. Given more time we would probably stay longer, as the place was really magical.
However we were on a schedule and after a peaceful night spend at “the world end” we left just after 7 in the morning, with a clear plan of sailing to Stavanger – our last stop in Norway. Luckily for us the sky was slowly coming out as the wind was pushing the clouds away. Unfortunately the wind was not reaching us and we could not sail, we had to motor all the way back. We were not in a hurry, leisurely cutting through the waters, admiring the views again, choosing our pace. Our engine was growling, but I was trying to ignore it, standing on the bed in a bow cabin, looking around, completely oblivious to the world opening up at the end of the fjord.
Lysefjord looked like a water-snake, with its glossy skin, wriggling between the rocks. The clouds were still hanging heavily, suppressing the sky. Standing in my bow cabin I was watching the high rocks slowly moving on both sides. Rysiu, busing himself with his camera, was jumping around the boat, registering the views and anyone who he could catch. He disturbed me in my perfect watching spot, bright and breezy, claiming that I was the perfect sight for his movie, as apparently no one was as yet filmed watching the world through the bow cabin hatch.
We had all day in front of us, the weather was stable, so a slow motoring was on the cards. Furthermore, as the tourist season was practically over, no one really was disturbing us on our way back. We saw the ferry once, but that was basically all the movement in the fjord.
With the captain’s permission we motored into a small opening in the rocks. Checking the depths we have slowly moved almost to the end of the opening. We could observe the rocks closely, almost touch them, admiring the small trees, stubbornly keeping themselves attached to the rocks. The silent was mesmerizing. Everyone was on the deck, enjoying the moment. I decided to leave my superb slot and join people on the deck.
The opening was incredible. Very narrow, we were barley fitting in. There was an avalanche of rocks at the bottom, but the depth was still enough for us to almost touch the end of the small valley. We stayed hidden from the world for a few minutes. The crystal clear water allowed us to see the bottom, the countless shades of brown and iron, sharp rocks not smoothed by the water, lying there, dipped for ever, creating a new world only a few could admire.
After a while we got back to the main body of the snake. I jumped in to the bow cabin and put my head through the hatch again. That was the best place on the boat, as I could comfortably observe my surroundings, saying goodbye to Lysefjord, its charming rocks and peaceful waters. Luckily for me Rysio had enough shots of my head sticking out from the hatch, so my peace was restored. The magic was slowly lifting as we were approaching the end of our 26 miles journey. Next stop – Stavanger!